When you’ve seen one glacier, you’ve seen them all. I’ve used this disrespectful quote before when it comes to trees, animals, and other forces of nature. Just like with food, I’m simply not discerning enough to appreciate the finer things in life. We’ve seen about 25 different glaciers on our Alaskan tour so far that in my feeble mind are nothing more than dirty snow sliding down a mountain. They have kind of an ugly blue tint to them that reminds me of Tidy Bowl. I simply can’t seem to get my mind around all the years it takes to form one of these ice slides nor can I seem to appreciate the years it takes to grow a tree. Admittedly, I’ve seen a lot of beauty on our Alaska cruise, but I’m not yet ready to become a nature lover.
Today, the cruise ship stopped at the base of the Hubbard Glacier with its 400 foot wall of ice that sent giant fragments violently crashing into the ocean below. I stepped outside on the deck this morning to admire the blue skies, dark sea, and the white chunks of ice floating by me as we faced this mountain of moving ice. I felt like I was looking into a giant cup of Diet Coke without a straw big enough to take a sip. The entire bay was surrounded by towering mountain peaks that glistened in this apparently rare moment of Alaskan sunshine.
While others stood for hours admiring nature’s work, I was ready to head inside to get my miles in on the boring treadmill. The deck was too cold and slippery, so I ran on a virtual beach that reminded my of Oregon with giant rocks just off shore. Horses trotted beside me and people walked by without waving as I navigated the artist created route. It was as close to a hike that I’ve taken on this trip, without the worries of loose sand, wet shoes, or any threat of an ankle injury. In the last week, I’ve ran on a fake track, through a fake woods, and on a fake beach. I can’t wait for tomorrow.
Another rushed morning getting ready for our wildlife tour. I only had time for a mile-and-a-half virtual beach run on the treadmill. My main concern is our Florida home now in the direct path of hurricane Ian. Neighbors have been helpful moving urns, plants, and our fountain to safer spots as Category 4 potential threatens the community. While we were on the boat this morning taking in the sights of the Tongass National Forrest surrounding the city of Sitka, rain was starting to move into our Venice hometown. The next 24-hours will tell the tale of structural damage, flooding, and power outages.
We did have a lovely lunch of crab legs, prime rib, salmon, and potatoes after seeing whales, bears, eagles, sea lions, and shore birds from our tour boat.
We’re now back in our stateroom with spotty internet, television, and phone service. I’ve had to write these reports on my phone until I can download them to the web. I’m already three days behind as we cruise through the mountainous Alaskan countryside.
Evening performances in the on-board theater have been a disappointment and we’re already into repeats. Fake ABBA was the only show we sat through the entirety while the ventriloquist, guitars, and magic were reasons for early-to-bed. Last night, even the TV was not working, so late night reading was the only entertainment option. Just give us anything to keep our minds off the threat to our home and property.
The baseball season may well be over for the White Sox and Cubs, but there’s still some exciting developments. Albert Pujols joined the 700 club, Aaron Judge tied Babe Ruth’s single season mark, and the Dodgers are on track to set the single season win mark. Teams that haven’t already claimed their Division titles are focused on the Wild Card race and Shohei Ohtani is in the running for MVP.
The White Sox playoff chances came down to a 4-game series with the Guardians. They won the first game in Cleveland but as has been the case all year couldn’t take advantage of home field and were easily swept. Now, they are 10-games out after folding to the bottom-feeding Tigers also at their oddly unfriendly home park. The meaningless battle for Division runner-up will soon take place against the Twins. Thankfully, it won’t be at Guaranteed Rate, so maybe they can maintain their two-game margin?
Outcomes have not been all bad for this sports fan. IU football is 3-1 after their loss to Cincinnati and are still capable of bowl eligibility with 3 more victories. IU Soccer has been a bit disappointing at 3-2-2 because it’s usually the brightest Hoosier athletic program at this time of year. IU basketball is filled with what might be unreal expectations, but fun to dream about enjoying a winning season with hopes of tournament glory again. The Colts and Bears are both off to great starts with both teams winning against top foes too foes on Sunday – a rare occasion of late. Promise is in the air.
We were fortunate to be on the maiden voyage of the Viking Orien through the icy narrows of Glacier Bay National Park. We could see most everything from our stateroom balcony but also chose to venture to the top deck for a broader view. We experienced Johns Hopkins Glacier, heard the crash of ice, saw dolphins and an Orca, plus navigated around chunks of ice that were not big enough to be icebergs. Instead, they were referred to as berg-bits. We cruised near Lamplugh Glacier, Russell Island, and Composit Island, as well as Grand, Drake, Willoughby, Beardslee, and Strawberry islands. Mountains and cascading waterfalls provided the background for this spectacular tour before we headed off to Sitka, the former Russian capital.
We’ve been at sea now for a full seven days with brief stops in Ketchikan, Juneau, and Skagway, In the next few days we’ll land in Valdez, Seward, Kodiak, and Dutch Harbor before the week-long trek to Kauai. As I write this, Hurricane Ian is headed to Florida and expected to hit in our area. Heavy rain and sustained wind will threaten our home. Construction still continues on our outdoor kitchen but most of our lanai is safely stored in the garage. We’re, of course, hoping for a direction change but prepared for some damage. Maybe it will only be a little bit while we’re safe and dry in Alaska?
We’re experiencing very bad internet service in Skagway. I can see where the Colts and Bears both won today but can’t get any details. The same is true with my E-Bay auction that ends today for the Sherm Lollar Lanes match book -pretty sure I’ll get sniped at the last minute but it’s not worth more than the $20 bid I made. It ultimately went for $20.50 as I feared.
We spent the morning in a fog, missing most of the sights along the White Pass Summit Vintage Railroad tour. It was amazing to see how this route was built through rock and over fjords to establish a goods exchange between the city of Skagway and its Canadian neighbors. It runs along the narrow rocky trail that prospectors used during the Klondike Gold Rush of 1899. I was concerned that the Canadian Mounted police might board the train as we circled back just over the boarder, demanding my surrender for not taking the mandatory covid test that I was randomly selected to undergo (See Post # 2147). Once the threat never materialized, my wife counted over 60 waterfalls along the way back until she lost interest and began to focus on downtown shopping.
I had a Alaskan beer yesterday afternoon at Juneau’s Red Dog Saloon complete with swinging doors and sawdust floors. It was my first beer since our Portland Leadership Meeting at Two Dogs Tavern – a dog theme is apparently forming when it comes to bars. Three Dog Night is probably next or the Dog Sled Saloon. I’ve mostly stuck to premium red wines or Chef’s Table pairings, Champagne, Limoncello, and Cranberry juice/Tito’s Vodka spritzers on the cruise.
As we crossed the treacherous bridges and trestles along the way, my wife was feeling squeamish and wondering why I was’t? Well, she had me all psyched for yesterday’s Brotherhood Bridge that turned out to be just street level, plus heights don’t seem to bother me in an enclosed area like the train car. It was built to celebrate the joining of the Huna Tlingit eagle and raven clans through marriage, as it is unacceptable to marry a fellow clan member. We learned all about Alaskan tribal clan houses, Potlatch parties/hats, and totem pole lore in Ketchikan.
It made me think of all the bridges we’ve crossed just in the past few months. These include Alabama’s Selma Bridge, Michigan’s Mackinac, Florida’s Skyway, Hope Memorial in Cleveland with the Guardians, the L&I over the Ohio River linking Indiana and Kentucky, the Venice Island drawbridge in our hometown, and the many bridges that span the canals in our Islandwalk neighborhood. Tomorrow, we’ll spend some time exploring Glacier Bay where the only bridges are made of ice.
We’re having a CAPITAL time as we head into Juneau, the second largest city in the U.S. by area but a population of only 32,255. It’s kind of like the half-full boat we’re on with plenty of space to call your own. The Viking Orion is designed to handle 900 passengers but with all the itinerary changes and Covid challenges less than 400 are on board for this cruise that ends in Honolulu several weeks from now. Our stateroom is on the Starboard side, meaning that in the direction we’re heading there are always great views from our room of the coast line, mountains, and settlements. Today, we’re going to spend some time on a glacier once we arrive in port about noon.
This morning is not as rushed as yesterday, so I was able to get my full 3.1 mile run in. However, the treadmill is still my only option with high wind warnings on the outdoor decks. I remember back on our Athens to Greece cruise a few years ago when my windbreaker (windbreaker broke) ripped apart during an early morning run on the Prominade Deck. I have a secondary battle on this trip because of the much cooler temperatures. I have a feeling that most of my jogging will be in the fitness center with the slight sway of the boat adding to the chore at hand. I did move into the top 400 (now #399) on the all-time U.S.R.S.A running streak list at 5,018 consecutive days. That doesn’t count the 450,00 push-ups and sit-ups that I’ve done in just this timeframe as part of the daily exercize ritual. As long as I keep going, no one will ever pass me and I’ll continue to move by those that have retired their streaks. There are also those warriors that are on the list twice, having discontinued and then restarted again with a combined total of over 10,000 days. At my age, once I stop, I know I’ll probably never get started again.
Mendenhall Glacier is our destination this afternoon, the only glacier in the world that is apparently still growing in size. There’s also a visit to Brotherhood Bridge that will likely test my fear of heights as we watch the waters of the Mendenhall River rush by. There may still be gold in “them thar hills,” as we’re entertained by our bus guide with stories of the Alaskan Gold Rush! Juneau what I mean!
Ketchikan holds the distinction of being Alaska’s first city. It’s actually an island accessible only be ferry. Even flight passengers have to cross the water to get into town. My first vision of the town was early this morning out of our sliding glass door windows. It was an eerie sight of gray skies, mist, and fog, giving it a haunted appearance. A few hours after arriving, I was up and on the treadmill looking across at Main Street before departing for our tour. A bus took us along the waterfront, while the tour guide entertained us with jokes and stories about the fascinating history of the area.
Totem poles define their culture. These carved monoliths, some taller than 40 feet, are filled with folklore about the ravens, whales, fish, eagles, and bears that coexisted with the Native American founders and spot painted with the traditional colors of red, black, turquois, and yellow. Our first stop was at Potlatch Park featuring a large clan house with a fire pit, smoke hole, and thatched roof covered with plants, trees, and moss. There is also a carving center, whale bones, and cedar animal sculptures. These amazing structures could be moved to “greener pastures” when food got scarce. Each totem pole was fashioned around an Indian legend and you could visualize these stories being told around the fire.
My wife spent a couple of hours downtown at the gift shop after the bus returned to the ship. After seeing an eagle and walking along muddy pathways, I had enough of nature for the day and viewed the surroundings from our cabin. The downtown area is complete with a mountain stream where the seals play and the fish jump. We watched another movie in the room just before the ship began to move towards the state capital of Juneau, our next rainy port.
A satisfying day 3 to report of rough seas and gray skies that broke long enough for a sunny lunch on the aft-deck. We lingered for a while by the infinity pool to soak up another hour of Vitamin D. We then went back to our cabin for the movie “Cyrano” before the “Arctic Skies Above Us” presentation in the Explorer’s Dome. Between the swaying of the ship on that uppermost deck, the curvature of the planetarium screen, and the 3-D glasses, I was feeling a bit queasy. The walk down six floors of stairs had us staggering like drunken sailors by the time we found our seats at the Chef’s Table. Up to that point, I was not under the influence but after five courses and the premium wine pairings, I was weaving from side-to-side down the hallways without a care in the world. Hopefully, it will rock us like a baby into a good night’s sleep.
The lounge act last night was not easily digestible with a Broadway voice performing rock tunes. The flashy style of the vocalist did not mesh with the guitar player in their effort to honor the legends. Instead, they sent us to bed early with a potentially rainy tour of Ketchikan looming first thing in the morning. At least, we’ll be on solid ground and on American soil once again. I’ll only have time for a short run on the treadmill before we hook up with the guide. Once I step off the boat, I will earn the honor of crossing another state off my list, with just one of the 50 now left to visit. We’ll get to Maine next year along with Arizona, Mexico, and Egypt as the retirement adventures continue. For now, it’s temporary relief of our sea legs and Hello Alaska!
Another great dinner last night served with premium wines. During the course of the evening we were educated on the constellations by the resident astronomer, entertained by the Viking band, introduced to the ship crew, and plied with alcohol. Today is an hour longer thanks to a time change, putting four hours difference between here and home. However, all my devices now show a different time, so I’m confused – but who cares? There will be one more hour gained when we get to Hawaii, then the dreaded payback on the long flight home. Our ride has gotten a little bumpier in these Pacific waters as we head for tomorrow’s arrival in Ketchikan and the achievement of my 49th of the 50 U.S. states visited.
It will be good to be back on U.S. soil since I am probably a wanted man in Canada. (See Post #2147). The treadmill was once again my only choice in maintaining The Streak, although it was a little more rocky in these rougher waters. There was far too much wind on the outdoor deck track that will probably only be usable when we’re not moving. The temperature is 53 degrees with a touch of fog and rain. This will probably be the norm during our time in Alaska, using Hawaii to eventually dry out and warm up. I can see the Coastal Mountains in the distance through the clouds. Outside the sliding glass doors it is cool and quite windy. It will not be like yesterday when we lunched outdoors with a whale and swam in the heated pool with blue skies overhead.
My wife could not get into the yoga class this afternoon, so we’re limited to a wine tasting event, her bridge lesson, afternoon tea, and an astronomy lecture, “Under the Arctic Sky,” in the Explorers’ Dome, with its unique overhead presentation capabilities. We might enjoy another happy hour with the pianist accompanying the artwork of Edvard Munch on the Atrium screen. Dinner is at the Chef’s Table, followed by “Legends Of Guitar – A Tribute to the Greatest Guitarists of All Time” in the Star Theater. I’m skeptical as to how they can do all these legends justice? Regardless, drinks will be served!
Last night’s movie aboard the Viking Orion was appropriately “Call of the Wild” after highlights of the Queen’s funeral. Dinner was at The Restaurant while Manfredi’s is reserved for tonight. We got our first tastes of the Silver Spirits premium wines package in the Explorer’s Lounge as we watched the ship leave the dock from the uppermost level. We’re on our way out of Canada and will be in Alaska in two days.
It was too windy this morning to run on the Promenade Deck, so I had no choice but to use the treadmill. You can barely feel the ship moving now as it makes its way through the narrow Seymour Narrows. A large group of Dolphins performed just outside our outdoor patio deck as we were having breakfast in the room. My wife left to play bridge while I started the laundry. She’ll be back in the room soon so we can go to lunch, but I’m in no hurry as the scenery is magnificent.
After a few trips to the buffet, we finished folding our clean clothes and went to an astronomy presentation on “The Sky Above Us.” My wife is also interested in the cooking classes and may drag me along. I’m content with just watching the Canadian shoreline pass by – mostly uninhabited by human beings and the home of the wild living in the endless, vast forests along this passageway to the Pacific. Mount Waddington (13,176 feet) is in the distance. I prefer observing nature from a distance in the air conditioned comfort of our stateroom, stepping outside on our sunny patio on occasion or dining on the aft-deck.
